Taucho Pesto

Fermented black beans, also called shih or taucho, can be made with different cultures. The most common type is made with Aspergillus sojae. But they can also be made with Bacillus subtilis, a useful and ubiquitous bacteria that secretes enzymes that are very widely used on food processing as well as other industrial applications.

When beans or someone other substance such as seeds or nuts or grains are made with B.subtilis they are known by different names based on the country they are made in. Almost every country in the world has a ferment that uses Bacillus subtilis one way or another. It’s a very common alkaline ferment.

In Japan, for example, small black soybeans or small yellow soybeans (both a species of legume called Glycine max) are inoculated with B.subtilis they are called natto. But there are many different types of natto with different names depending on the size of the bean used, whether the outcome is dried, and even if the beans used were pieces instead of whole beans.

And, like everything else, sometimes things have names based entirely on where in Japan they were made, and of course what you do with them. In future posts we’ll describe how to make a great miso using natto (なっとう)、as well as a few other things you’ll like as much as this. We made a pizza with this the other day with this taucu pesto.

Taucho is the name used in Malaysia. They also make a taucho manis, a beloved sweet version that finds a use in just about everything. Most people know the word kecap manis, which is a version of very sweet soy sauce that used to be made with fermented black beans. Yeah, we have a recipe for that.

After making natto from black soybeans and other ingredients, we decided that after two months at 34F they really smelled exactly like Parmiggiano-Reggiano. Or maybe an aged Romano cheese.

That all changed, however, when we decide to dehydrate them to make several dishes. After the first four hours of the most intense cheese smell they started to have background notes of maturing protein. As in ammonia. After 16 hours of open windows they were finally done.

Cheese Raisins?

They tasted great. So we decided to make a special pesto type sauce that can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a year. It makes about four cups (or 1900 grams).

Two to 3 tablespoons on a plate of pasta, or mounted in a sauce, or used as a marinade ups the flavor and protein level of just about anything. Obviously a great topping for bean soup or any stew.

  • 113 grams dried black natto (or fermented black beans)
  • 2 cups water
  • 2 cups sake or white wine (optional)
  • 76 grams nutritional yeast
  • 4 cups or 265 grams dried tomatoes (sun dried work as well)
  • 1 cup or 100 grams dried onions (or 2 cups minced and cooked down until brown)
  • 1 cup or 60 grams dried celery
  • 1 1/4 cup or 240 grams of mirin (the alcoholic one) or water
  • 4 TB oregano

Mix all ingredients together and let sit overnight or a day.

  • 1 cup or 115 grams raw, trimmed garlic cloves
  • 2 cups or 410 grams light olive oil
  • 2 cups or 525 grams of thick, salted basil puree
  • Above mix from 24 hours ago

Fresh basil and salt from the Sumer of 2019

Fry the finely minced or pureed fresh garlic cloves, trimmed of the stem ends, gently in the heated oil. Add the mixed ingredients from the day before to the hot garlic and oil. Cook gently for 15 minutes stirring constantly. The alcohol will cook off while helping to preserve the mixture. Add the basil and salt puree and cook for a minute.

Let cool, stirring as it cools down to ensure all the oil gets mixed in evenly. Refrigerate. Last at least 6 months, 12 months if well refrigerated. Makes about 3 pints.

Mother Sauces

Mother Sauces: Tomato

Classic French cooking has a long established tradition of using five sauces that pair with specific traditional ingredients. They are called mother sauces. If you were going to make a gratin of potatoes or macaroni and cheese, you would make a Béchamel sauce. If you added salt, pepper, nutmeg and Gruyere cheese to it a Mornay sauce was created – a child of Béchamel.

The five types are Béchamel, Velouté, Espagnole, Hollandaise and Tomato. We count Mayonnaise and Vinaigrette in with the Hollandaise since all three are emulsions of an acid base with fat that can be the start for thousands of variations.

Classifying something as a mother sauce is useful because it makes it easier to keep track of the variations. The French have a highly regarded cuisine, but so do the Chinese, Indians, Mexicans, Japanese, Italians and, really, every region and ethnicity throughout the world.

Sometimes, depending on what culinary tradition you were following, the classic mother sauce was made with rigorously chopped celery, carrots and onions (called a mirepoix), and aromatics. An aromatic could include almost anything like mushrooms, peppers, garlic, bacon, etc.

Defining specific techniques and defining basic preparations, such as what the mother sauces are, is what makes varying from these standards so important and interesting.

Today there are a lot more types of mother sauces, including jiangs. The Jiang category includes all kinds of legume based pastes, soy sauce, shoyus, misos, fermented grain or nut pastes. It also includes other protein rich sauces typically made from animals as in fish sauce, garums, and beef sauces.

The way we make any sauce today often ends up using concentrated essences and other ingredients that are easier and faster made with things like sous-vide cookers or pressure cookers. But they can also include short or long fermented ingredients based on jiang such as soy sauce or a fish sauce as mentioned above.

We also consider pestos, barbecue and dessert sauces as mother sauces.


All of these sauces can actually be turned into something you are already familiar with. They are typically easy, and usually tastier than store bought. But you can make some part or all of them to make them your own. Or just add a dash of soy sauce or fish sauce to a store bought one.

We will explain how to make and use these all of them, classic and unique sauces, condiments and other things we consider essential items to have in your larder. You’ll learn how to cook and ferment everything as we go along, or at least become a better informed eater.

The French perfected the food preparation protocol of mise-en-place. It’s not like they invented it. It’s that they codified it, and described it. Everyone was pretty much taught that to make a basic Béchamel sauce you made a flout and butter mix and cooked that with milk.

The traditional French mother sauces are great classic sauces, but cuisine is being invented, reinvented and recycled all the time. We know so much more about what cultures around the world have been doing, sometimes for thousands of years, that it’s clear that the French way only way to create a mise-en-place.

Asian basic sauces including miso and soy sauces are now incorporated into all types of cuisines.

Mother Tomato

Here is how we make our classic tomato mother sauce. Remember that the more things a mother or base sauce contains, the less adaptable it will be. If you add meat or a specific spice to it, you can’t use it for a vegetarian dish or something that just doesn’t taste good with that spice.

Our tomato sauce is not very much like the French original but it’s uses are incredibly varied. You could just as easily make a concassé or a coulis from fresh tomatoes and herbs – we consider those more as vinaigrettes or pan sauces – but this sauce works for us.

The use of peppers makes this an ideal stepping off point for Cajun, Creole and other cooking styles, including Italian, Spanish and Indian cuisine.

Adding proteins such as peanuts, vegetable protein (TVP) make this a quick and fast meal sauce to have on hand. You could add ground meat or shrimp this, but we’ll exlan those sauces in upcoming posts.

Use toasted almonds or sunflower seeds for an equally tasty sauce. If you to go bean free skip the textured vegetable protein and use dehydrated tomato flakes, sun-dried tomatoes, or a cup of chopped carrots or parsley.

Regardless of whether you choose to add meat or a fish stock or lots of mushrooms, it will be tasty and last at least a few weeks. If the fennel bothers you add basil or some other spice. The variations are almost endless.

Remember that you can’t remove meat or anchovies or cheese or rosemary from a sauce, but you can always add things.

Dried fermented soybeans or shih, make a great base taste for tomato and other sauces. We make out own. You can buy them readily online on in Asian grocery stores. These are plain. Some are already seasoned. If you use pre-made seasoned ones, rinse and soak well before frying unless they suit the dish you are making.

Tomato Mother Sauce

  • 1 cup or 3.1 ounces or 88 grams TVP or protein substitute
  • 1 small or 1.5 ounces or 45 grams chopped yellow onion
  • 1/2 cup or 125 ml olive oil
  • 2 tsp fennel seeds
  • 4 TB or 1.4 ounces or 40 grams fermented black beans (shih)
  • 1 cup or 250 ml water or stock
  • 1 cup or 60 grams dried celery
  • 1/4 cup dried garlic chips
  • 1 cup or 84 grams dried peppers
  • 2 cups sake, white wine or stock
  • 2 TB dried oregano
  • 6 3/4 cups or 53 ounces or 1500 grams crushed plum tomatoes
  • 1/4 cup or 60 ml extra virgin olive oil

To make the sauce cook the textured protein and chopped yellow onion in the regular olive oil with the fermented beans and fennel seeds until golden brown. Add the water, then the dried peppers, garlic and onions. Add more sake, wine or stock and simmer for ten minutes.

Add tomatoes and oregano and simmer another 15 minutes, gently. Add a very small amount of salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, although it is not necessary. Add the extra virgin olive oil and any fresh, chopped parsley you like at the end after removing from the heat. Usually, we use a cup of parsley.

Put this tomato on sauce on rice, or spread on a pizza crust with cheese, or eat with toast on on vegetables. Mix it with beans and you have chili. Tempeh curry or parmesan with or without dairy or nut cheese is tasty!

We will publish several other basic recipes for tomato sauces. Each one will serve to illustrate why sauces typically vary depending on what you are going to cook in them, what ingredients you have at your disposal, what you are putting them on, blending them with, or how you will finish a dish right before serving.